Thursday, 15 May 2014

Clothing: Suit for Men - Pants Suit

The pants suit is gaining in popularity. It is important that the clothes suit is well chosen. A competent Haberdasher is usually the best place to seek specific advice.

The demand for a dress suit has been increasing in men's fashion until the last few years. Be it for a professional conference, an evening event or even a private event such as wedding or birthday party. The pants suit should not be missed. However, many a man desperate already at the first hurdle: the selection to the appropriate piece of cloth. Because not everyone pants suit off the rack can be worn well. Too long, too short, too far. Finding the perfect dress suit, is often very difficult. However, even more difficult is proving to be looking for the right clothing business, finds the matching pants suit in the man. The range of men's fashion is now very high, but should pay attention to a few important points when buying a suit is pending. First of all, you should know its size. The event, to which the suit may be borne with, is also important. For a wedding suit differs essentially by the cut and the material in comparison to a more conventional pants suit for the profession. Wedding Suits to fall. Business suits are rather plain and unremarkable. Another important factor is the color. Not everyone can have the color beige or brown bear and black bears one actually only a glamorous event or at a funeral. In addition, the color with the shoes, the selected shirt and of course the tie should be consistent. Who is already overwhelmed with all the one who should consult a resident Haberdasher and seek advice there. These are very knowledgeable and usually lead very select and fashionable deals on pantsuits. Every man, so who wants to play it safe is there to the right place. For it is not only good advice, but can be sure that the selected accessories will definitely fit the dress suit. Who wants a custom pants suit, which is good advice from a tailor. However, a tailored suit has its price. The advantage of a tailored suit is that it is only once these are, sitting on any case. Moreover, the quality of these suits is much higher quality than those of the rod. But just affordable only to the man who put the can afford them.

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Wednesday, 14 May 2014

Five steps to the perfect shirt

Iron shirts: Moisture helps

At the beginning it is helpful, the shirts immediately after washing to hang on hangers. Then do not wrinkle as much and can be ironed much easier later. The ironing board is ready for installation when the clothes are still damp. The water vapor assists in smoothing out the wrinkles. Dry ironing aids from the supermarket it is better to avoid, because they often leave stains on the fabric.

Be careful with the labels

Basically: From small to large iron and start with the tricky bits. Start with the collar. Iron each from the top towards the center. First the back side, the front side. Now the shoulder turn comes. When a label thicker, it can happen that you ironed out the outlines in the fabric. To avoid this, pull the label to the outside. Now follow the cuffs. Iron also here first the rear and then the front. For this, open the button. For sleeve: keep it on the inner seam to align. This creates a neat crease on the shoulders. Iron the first the rear and then the front. Iron at the tip of the iron in the small folds in the sleeve inside.

The trick for the placket

Do not despair at the placket. ironing only the back - this is completely sufficient and quick. With the buttonhole bar, proceed the same way. For firmer material such as corduroy, it may still be that you have to iron the front placket, ie the spaces between the buttons. Finally, follow the front and back of the shirt. On the front side, special emphasis should be placed, for here the other person first looks down. Is the shirt ironed, it is hung to cool on a bracket to prevent mildew. The best way to close the first buttons so the shirt stays in shape.

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Thursday, 8 May 2014

Made to Measurements vs. Custom Tailoring: differences and similarities

Perfect suit by a Mass Tailoring 

Who does not want a suit off the rack, has a choice of tailored clothing and custom tailoring: Is not that the same thing? One might think, but it's not! The gentleman's blog shows the similarities and differences between the two versions. We also inform you of quality features, prices and production.

Alternative to the-peg

Crime scene Haberdasher: Rows of dark blue, dark gray and black suits seem to drag on indefinitely. It takes time and patience to pick out as a matching suit. And then you will also be forced to compromise because most is the beautiful dark blue double-breasted, to which you had placed your attention, unfortunately just not available in your size. Yes, then you can buy just anthracite, one always needs a suit now ... If you know the problem and are tired, we provide you with a solution before.

Tailor-made suit - The measure of things

The history of bespoke tailoring begins in the early Middle Ages. At that time everything was still produced in-house and by hand. Only kings and princes could afford to have their garments manufactured in the workshops of their own tailor. Who wore something from the tailor, was rich and showed that too. Still one connects the pure luxury with the tailor's trade, because a tailor-made suit is indeed expensive.
 
The high cost and the materials to make a tailor-made suit so expensive. The production of a bespoke suit takes so much time that no man would ever think to choose cheap materials here. The substances are generally acquired in the best weaving mills in England and Italy.
 
Also, the time required is easily explained: First, the customer must be measured. This is usually a lengthy consultation, in which the cutter must sensing taste and style of the customer, and then customize it the right suit. The cut of the suit fabric , the details - everything has to add to a consistent picture that emphasizes the personality of the man in the end. If the measurements are taken, begins the work of the cutter. From the data of the customer and the long experience of the tailor a pattern is developed, which is then drawn only on paper on a sample fabric. After cutting the items to be merged into this hand to a preliminary suit. Finish is the sample suit.
 
The test suit is only made of simple materials. It serves the hook to verify that its dimensions were correct, and to consult with the customer consultation, so that any change requests can attach. If customer and Schneider are satisfied, the actual suit is based on the first suit now only in the noble substance manufactured. If this is done then it comes to the second fitting. For this, the customer shall be required to again. The suit is checked and the Schneider accepts any customer requests. Subsequently, the suit will be revised. The procedure can still repeat one or the other time, certainly until it comes to the final fitting, the so-called handover.
 
The entire process takes up to six months. This should plan before buying. During this time, a unique product is developed, whose quality is, however, open up only at second glance, because an old Schneider wisdom says: "If someone your new suit praises, did your tailor something wrong." Because the only task of the tailored suit should be, with its refined simplicity to emphasize the personality of the wearer. Then the passion have paid off for beautiful clothing, all the money and the enormous patience. If you then the suit eventually holds in hands, it is a noble outfit richer and poorer by two to three thousand euros.

Made to Measurements - first alternative to tailoring

But what to do when one has neither an excessive amount of money or patience, but the same passion for beautiful, quality clothes with exact fit? You look for a 'tailor!
 
The customized clothing fills the large gap between custom tailoring and cut lengths. It is an alternative for men who have neither a fortune on the table still want to wait half a year on their suit (or can not), but do not want to give up a high-quality suit and participation.
 
The difference between the customized clothing and custom tailoring is in the approach. Although the tailors as well as the 'tailor misses his customers. The difference in the measurement situation, however, is that the customer is measured by a 'tailor a standard size system. Thus, the step with the production of the test suit is skipped almost. Instead, the extent of the customer based on an already existing sample suit to be adjusted at the first encounter.
 
Amazingly, quality providers are after a customized clothing Tailoring in material selection and personalization options in nothing. Often you can choose from the same Italian and English fabrics, which also offers a good tailor. In this case the customer a technical advisor is similar to custom tailor made to the side, so we can cater exactly to their wishes.
 
After the customer was measured by a 'tailor and fabric selection has taken its data are sent to a facility where a computer develops an individual pattern, which is then cut with high precision machines from the fabric. The parts arrive in a production process, experienced seamstress / inside assemble the suit in the course.
 
It is said among experts that the first hundred shirts a seamer be thrown away immediately, the second hundred, you can sell off to discount stores, the third hundred of mid-range stores. Only after about four hundred shirts sewn up a sewing or seamstress has reached the desired quality that you can expect at a world-class provider of customized clothing. If the suit is assembled, it will be checked by an expert with years of experience in the slightest error. If there is only one seam to be wrong, the suit will be produced again. Despite everything, it comes after almost two weeks already to a second fitting with the customer. Also change requests are received and subsequently reacted Like the tailors.
 
To obtain a reasonable maßkonfektionierten suit, you have to invest at least 450 euros on the table. Depending on fabric and extra wishes the price can increase significantly but still.
 
Customized clothing is the first alternative for a quality suit

Beware of cheap airlines from suits

By the way: Steer clear of cheap airlines, especially when their customers can be even measured. That's way too error-prone and inaccurate. This mainly includes various online vendors that advertise tailored suits for less than 200 euros. The conditions can be neither high-quality fabrics, nor will the customer comes in contact personally with the cutter, the taking enough time and leisure to measure. Accordingly, great is the danger that the suit at the end is not the right fit. This is where the old rule: Anyone who buys cheap, buys twice. Therefore is another rule: you should buy the best quality you can afford with its current budget ever. Then you have more and more of what his clothes.
 
The Internet offers the 'tailor and the tailor and their customers but also advantages. If the customer was once measured by the tailor of his confidence, he or she can reorder a perfect fitting and high-quality suit from anywhere in the world; at least as long as body weight and body shape has not changed significantly in the meantime. Then it also takes less than six months more, but only about two to three weeks. And the price is also more humane. In the event you pay for an additional quality suit from the tailor 'hardly more than a brand suit off the rack.

Conclusion: tailoring vs. Made to Measurements

A perfectly tailored suit can save a day, but you should not expect too much. It is neither the British secret agent of the stomach nor less, just because the suit fits well.
 
Tailored suits are a piece of consummate craftsmanship. While this has its price, but it contributes to a suit, as he could not be of high quality. However, customized clothing is a cheaper alternative. This modern version of the suit production often even offers a comparable quality and free fabric and color choice. But as always it is up to you: tailored clothing or tailoring - you decide!
 
This post was created with Kindly supported by Jakob von Grünberg from Berlin Haberdasher Amerano .

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